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How to Start Your Ductwork Layout

How to Start Your Ductwork Layout
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How to Start Your Ductwork Layout

The dust collector itself is only one part of an efficient dust collection system. An airtight and optimized ductwork layout is essential to maximize your shop's performance. Oneida Air Systems has put together a guide designed to provide a basic understanding of dust collection airflow and the components required to successfully complete an entire ductwork installation. Each section of this blog series will take you through the processes of preparing, assembling, and connecting your ductwork.

Once your order has been received and checked in, you are ready to begin assembling the main line of your ductwork layout.

What Is The Main Line?

The main line (sometimes referred to as the trunk line) is the primary segment of ductwork that is connected directly to the dust collector's inlet. It is typically a straight line of the largest diameter possible to minimize air resistance and static pressure loss. Components of the main line are designed with airflow performance in mind, featuring very gradual reductions and large radius turns to minimize changes in air pressure.

The main line can be composed of either:

  • Snap-Lock Ductwork - standard components with raw or crimped ends that are inserted into one another and sealed with foil tape or silicone caulk with screws/rivets for additional security. Suitable for shops of any size.
  • Quick-Clamp Ductwork - modular components feature rolled ends and are sealed together using quick-release, locking clamps. Very simple and easy to install and modify but with higher initial purchase costs.
  • Spiral Pipe Ductwork - industrial components must be connected together using special couplers or using welded flanges. Very robust solution ideal for very long runs and permanent fixtures.

Where To Position Your Dust Collector

We recommend locating your dust collector as centrally as possible to all tools. Position your system closest to the machines with the highest airflow requirement (e.g. planers, jointers, drum sanders, etc.) - refer to your tool's owners manual for CFM requirements if necessary.

You'll want to keep all lengths of ductwork to a minimum so that you'll have more air available at your machine. When considering your design, bear in mind what obstructions the ductwork may run into when coming out from the collector (overhead lights, support posts, rafters, etc.).

Centrally positioning the dust collector in the shop
Recommended ductwork layouts versus a poor design

Connecting Ductwork To Your Dust Collector’s Inlet

You'll want to create a smooth transition between the inlet and your new ductwork. This is especially important with cyclonic systems as the cyclone separates dust most efficiently when the incoming airstream has as little turbulence as possible.

Straight segment connection

A straight segment at the start of your main line ensures maximum airflow.

Turns at the connection

If turns are absolutely required, run 1 or 2 feet of straight pipe at the collector’s inlet to allow a smoother, less turbulent flow of air into the cyclone. Avoid turns at the inlet as this creates a “system effect” that will hurt airflow and separation efficiency.

Adjusted height to ease connection

If necessary, adjust the height of the inlet to ensure a straight line; the motor can be positioned between ceiling joists leaving 1" of free space for the motor’s ventilation. Extra length of flex hose may be required.

Important Note: Our instructions are recommended based off of airflow efficiency and may not always be right for every shop. Design a layout that works best for you and your work.

Most dust collection systems feature inlets designed to directly accommodate crimped ductwork fittings as the crimp should always be facing in the direction of airflow.

If you're using clamp together ductwork, however, you can use one of our Quick-Clamp Machine Adapters to make the inlet compatible with rolled end ducting. We recommend that the adapter be sealed in place with Foil Tape, but you can also drill sheet metal screws through both the adapter and the dust collector’s inlet for more secure connections.

Machine adapter connecting to inlet


Hanging Ductwork from the Ceiling

If the space in your shop allows for it, hanging ductwork from the ceiling is often the most convenient. It frees up floor space and there is typically plenty of room to angle directly over your tools (and thus shorten any overall ducting lengths).

Oneida Air Systems offers standard Hanger Strap or the Gripple Hang-Fast System for ceiling mounted ducting, but it is your responsibility to ensure the safety of all supported ducting. Be sure you check with local agencies to ensure that your ducting is supported in a way that meets local codes.

Dust clogged pipe drawing
An example of steel ductwork clogged with dust
Important Note: When determining the weight your hangers must support, always allow for the ducting being 100 percent clogged with whatever material is being conveyed. For example, a typical 6"x5' snap-lock pipe might only weigh around 7 lbs when empty but could weigh 3x as much if it ever became clogged with wood dust! Multiply that along the entire length of ducting that's hung and you could have a large problem if you didn't hang the ducting from a properly anchored source.
Stud finder

Use a stud finder to identify where you will install the ductwork hangers in your shop. It must mount to a reinforced position (e.g. studs, joists, etc.).

Line marked on ceiling

Then, mark a line parallel to the dust collector's inlet along the reinforced positions you've determined.

Hanger strap spacing

Plan to install ductwork hangers to support the pipe every 3-4 feet.

Gripple Hang-Fast system

For the Gripple Hang-Fast system, refer to its included instruction sheet. For the Hanger Strap, read below.

Methods for Installing the Hanger Strap

There are two common methods for installing standard duct hanging strap on the ceiling. Which you use is up to you and largely depends on how you like to work and how your shop is setup. Some prefer the Loop Ahead of Time method since they can prepare and visualize how everything will come together. Some prefer the Loop As You Go method since their shop's layout may be a bit malleable and there might be lots of obstructions to work around.

Loop Ahead of Time Method

Use sheet metal snips to cut a length of Hanger Strap equal to 2x the circumference of the pipe you will be hanging, repeating for each pipe segment to be hung. Then secure the Hanger Strap by attaching to the wall/ceiling at each end of the strap, creating open half-loops. Feed your ductwork through each of these loops, connecting duct components together as you go.

Attaching hanger strap loops to the ceiling Feeding ductwork through attached hanger strap loops Finished ductwork hanging in loops

Loop As You Go Method

Secure one end of the hanger strap to your wall/ceiling using appropriate fasteners. Raise your ductwork into place and grab the open end of the Hanger Strap, pulling it against the pipe and securing it to the wall/ceiling. Cut off the excess hanger strap and repeat as necessary to support the duct line.

Looping hanger strap around the pipe
Creating loops as you need them to support the duct.

What's Next?

At this point, your assembly process will be different depending on the type of ductwork you've chosen. Read about how to assemble Standard Ductwork here or read about how to assemble Quick-Clamp Ductwork here

Looking for more help with your ductwork installation? All of our large ductwork orders and ductwork kits now include a copy of our complete Ductwork Installation Guide, which goes into detail on each step of the process.

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GORDON P PATNUDE
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How about just publishing a PDF for us to download?? I have a 12' x 24' shop with a Jet 1100cfm to which I've added a Dust Deputy and cannister filter. Before I do any more, I have to make some kind of mods to my contractor saw to improve the dust collection/capture, as the factory provided adapter in the bottom of the cabinet body is next to useless without sealing the enclosure. Also, my router table needs to be re-done for the same reasons -- too much leakage. Any suggestions for these two pieces of equipment?? After that, my next step, if I can afford it, will be to install ducting for easier connectivity to my machines. Any suggestions as to the overall design?? Thanks, s/ Gordon
Patrick Farrell
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Hi I have the super cell collector and I'm in the process of hanging duct work. I'm using the 4" pipe and I'd like to know should I seal the snap lock seams or are they tight enough. Thanks. Patrick Farrell
Oneida Air Systems
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Patrick, Snap-lock piping does not need to have the seam sealed. For the Supercell, it is not recommend using 24 gauge or higher snap-lock piping in conjunction with this system. If you have further questions, please reach out to customer support at 1-800-732-4065.
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